Bedding New Chainplates

Hi all, I have another lame question for you all.  I have received the first two of six new chainplates.  They are the larger round external versions.  I am planning on bedding them using butyl tape for the plates and bolts.  Does anybody disagree with this?

Thanks, Bill

[Jules Shockley]

Bill,
Whats wrong with Boatlife? It's easy, you goop it in, it stays flexible for years and does a good job.
I just don't get this butyl tape trend. The guy who sales it is making out. I priced it online.
Jules

[Jules Shockley]

Bill,
 I forgot to mention 5200. If you never intend to remove the chainplates, that is the undisputed choice.
Jules

[Dave German]

Bill,

We bedded ours with Sikaflex 291. Very flexible around the plates. We then put butyl tape under the chainplate covers to make the final seal.

Dave

S/V Equinox

[Peter Roach]

I like the butyl tape idea. It stays flexible forever. I would probably bevel the holes where the hardware goes through the hull so you get a little gasket effect.

You can buy rolls of Butyl tape at an auto supply store. It is called windshield rope. It is about $10 per roll. The butyl cleans up with Dissolveit (Ace hardware).

If I did not use Butyl I would try Sikaflex. I have heard great things about it.

Hi Bill,

I don't think it makes much difference what you use as long as it seals well and remains flexible.  I like the butyl tape for the bolts.  Not sure I would use 3M 5200 as when you do have to remove the plates all your paint and gelcoat will probably will unnecessarily come off also.  Just make sure you bevel the exterior holes so you get a good seal around the bolts and lay a bead around the circumference of the plates to prevent water getting between them and the hull.

Dave

[Jules Shockley]

Once again, Boatlife is perfect for that job! Stays flexible, last for years, does a good job( I have had NO leaks) and is removable.
Jules

[Bill Bischoff]

Okay, Boatlife it is.

[Jules Shockley]

Bill,
Good choice on the Boatlife...
A tip on removing the chainplates. I learned the hard way after spending half a day removing the first nut. The nuts on my chainplates were the nylon insert type to keep them from backing off.. Even though the plates were badly rusted, the nuts were in good shape. I took a heat gun and heated them until the nylon melted. the the nuts came off easily. You might have to use PB Blaster or hold the bolt tip with vicegrips to break them loose, but for the most part they came off easily. The harder part was breaking the plates loose from the hull. They were epoxied in and I had to use a crowbar to pry them loose. I assume you were able to remove the top bolt by digging into the hull and using a long spanner on the backside. A learning curve at best.
If you need pictures, let me know...Good luck.
Jules

[Rhapsody]

(which was in perfect shape, thank you very much) was a real bast#rd.

you won't know until you have them x-rayed.

Most CSY chainplates are 32 to 34 yyears old and should be changed regardless what they look like.
I have heard of a few boats dis-masted in less than stormy conditions because of weak and or corroded chain plates.

Some folks remove their chainplates, have them tested and x-rayed and if nothing wrong, put them back in. Not sure I understand the logic of that as the hard part is removing and installing, not having new ones made..  
(I paid $750.00 for all 9 plates including 3 backing plates made from 316 SS)

[Jules Shockley]

Dag,
Seems to me, if you're going to all that trouble, you might as well move them outboard. NO LEAKS and much easier to deal with down the road. Of course, some don't like the looks. Some do. One of the best upgrades I have done.
Jules