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Messages - Matthew Balch

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31
Systems / Re: Lightening grounding strip mounting flush or with a gap?
« on: October 08, 2017, 05:04:46 PM »
In addition to the mast being grounded to the lightening plate on the bottom of the boat, I recently ran heavy wire from the chainplates, bow pulpit and arch to that point also.  This was done to get any lightening surge out of the boat as quickly as possible.  Hope it helps, but you never know!

32
Systems / Re: Purchasing 10 -130 watt flexible solar panels from China
« on: September 27, 2017, 10:12:52 PM »
My comment was about the transparent film deteriorating, but the panels were not delaminating at that point.  There was no danger of the panels coming off in the wind or seas.  The deterioration of the top film would only be a concern if you intend to collect rain water off of them, then you would need to filter the water before putting it into your tanks.

33
Systems / Re: Lightening grounding strip mounting flush or with a gap?
« on: September 27, 2017, 10:05:24 PM »
That is true!  Chilly Pepper has the same thing, and it is offset from the hull by about a half inch.

34
Systems / Re: Purchasing 10 -130 watt flexible solar panels from China
« on: September 25, 2017, 05:25:57 PM »
Hi Martin,  On the Amel Maramu, these flexible solar panels were mechanically fastened with screws into the hardtop.  They did not lay completely flat because there was a connection with wires at one end.  We were shaking down the boat for a transatlantic crossing and it has sailed from Grand Bahama to Bermuda to Azores, Spain, Algeria and Cyprus since then.  We were being very careful to filter the dirt and plastic residue out of the water BEFORE letting it flow into the boat's tanks.  This was too much residue to allow into the tanks and be handled with the pump and domestic water system.  Matthew

35
Systems / Re: Purchasing 10 -130 watt flexible solar panels from China
« on: September 25, 2017, 08:59:31 AM »
My only experience with the flexible panels comes from a friend who purchased 6 for mounting on the hard top and deck of his Amel Maramu.  They had been mounted for a year when we cruised through the Bahamas together earlier this year.  The panels worked, tho not as well as the hard ones mounted on the arch.  The only problem I noticed was that there was a peeling of the plastic film covering the panels.  When we collected water off the hard top, the water needed to be heavily filtered before putting into the boat's tanks.  Matthew

36
Hull and Rig / Re: External Round Chainplates Design
« on: August 22, 2017, 09:22:06 AM »
Hi Martin,  I would think that chainplates should last at least 25 years.  Yours have already been replaced so they could go less or longer depending on how much the boat was used, where it was used, how well maintained, the quality of the materials & design, etc.  They are easy to give a cursory inspection, and as long as you do not see an issue, they are probably just fine for a number of years, in my opinion.  Mine were replaced about 10 years ago and they are still perfect.  Matthew

37
Hull and Rig / Re: Csy 44 cored + rotten decks.
« on: August 14, 2017, 09:45:36 AM »
Hi Alex, one other thought.  In addition to what Sherry said about information on how to repair cored decks, there are many threads about this on Cruisers Forum, and I have also seen articles in Good Old Boat, etc. 

I was also thinking that the gooey stuff in the joint may have been butyl rubber, which is excellent stuff, and can still be procured online and in some RV shops.  You probably don't have RV shops in the Carib, tho.
Matthew

38
Hull and Rig / Re: Csy 44 cored + rotten decks.
« on: August 14, 2017, 09:20:25 AM »
Hi Alex.  So your boat is #218.  Mine is #214, and it definitely has solid fiberglass decks. So at least up to that point, 12/1980, the decks were solid glass. According to the PO, mine was "removed" from the production facility right after it was closed down and everything being locked up, so yours was most likely finished by another entity with different methods.  It is my understanding that what followed was the Antigua 44, which had wood cored decks.

In answer to your other question, the PO of my boat did replace the forward part with the slotted aluminum rails, but he left the teak toe rail on the aft decks.  That part is still without leaks, and it looks OK, not contrasting poorly with the aluminum forward part.

Good luck with your repairs and renovations.  It's a great boat and I am having a lot of fun with mine!

39
Interior / Re: Port Light - Dogs
« on: May 26, 2017, 09:35:56 AM »
Hi Peter,

I was missing one also and couldn't immediately find the dog bolt so I made it myself.  I fabricated it from a 3/8" bolt.  The wing nut you show in the photo you can find easily by doing an internet search for "bronze eye nut".  The size should be 3/8 also to match the threads of the rest of your dogs.

There's also the possibility that you can find the dog bolt at one of the companies that manufacture bronze and stainless portlights like NFM or one of the others.

Matthew

40
Hull and Rig / Re: Transparent hatches
« on: May 21, 2017, 12:45:43 PM »
Hi Peter, that's an interesting approach.  But how will you deal with the nut end of the bolts and the top of the opening?  Seems very close, and that part needs to be waterproof.  Matthew

41
Hull and Rig / Re: Transparent hatches
« on: May 14, 2017, 10:34:07 PM »
Hi Jules,  from my research, Awlgrip makes different clear finishes.  Please try the Alwgrip clear acrylic finish.  A year or so ago, I asked this forum about the same question and Dave from Soggy Paws said that Acrylic paint is the only one that will hold up in the sun and salt.  He was right of course, but I used a cheap automotive spray paint one that did not hold up in the sun for very long.  The hatches that are in the shade still look excellent, but the 2 forward ones need some new treatment after a year or so.  Matthew

42
Hull and Rig / Re: Staysail boom
« on: May 14, 2017, 11:22:41 AM »
Thane, mine has a roller furling staysail.  The tracks are located on the top edge of the main cabin forward of where a dodger would go.  The sheet angles are good with this set-up, but you may find it very beneficial to install a couple of small S/T winches and cleats on the cabin top inside the dodger area, accessible from the cockpit.  I can send a photo if you like.  Matthew

43
Hull and Rig / Re: Transparent hatches
« on: May 14, 2017, 11:14:12 AM »
Jules, I gave mine a light sanding to smooth down and remove the deteriorated stuff in the translucent part. Then put another coat of resin on them.  On the worst ones, I also put a layer of fiberglass on the underside too.  After curing, I sprayed clear acrylic, obtained from an auto discount store, over the resined part.  This looked great, like new.  This treatment lasts for about a year, and is beginning to discolor now, although the resin and glass are fine.  Next time, I will try using the Awlgrip clear acrylic paint as that should hold up much longer than the auto spray paint.  Matthew

44
General Discussion / Re: ownership
« on: December 07, 2016, 04:16:56 PM »
Hi Louis,  that's not a problem.  It is good to have all the numbers just right.  Incidentally,  you can verify the number by pulling out any drawer in the boat and see the number repeated on the bottom of the drawer.  That's a funny thing about thee boats,  as the woodwork appears to have been custom made for each individual boat.  Matthew

45
Sorry, I will have to miss the GAM this year.  I am delivering a sailboat from Mexico to the Panama Canal at this time.  See you next year!  Enjoy!  Matthew

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