Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Matthew Balch

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 11
1
Engines and Drive Train / Re: Replacing the Prop Shaft on a 33
« on: February 07, 2020, 08:55:11 AM »
Hi Max, I replaced the shaft, flexible coupling and cutless bearing on my previous boat.   I reconditioned the bronze stuffing box, it was fine, but replaced its rubber hose and hose clamps.  The bronze shaft log pipe stayed in.
You will probably need some tools.  A sawsall to cut the cutless bearing out, a micrometer to measure the inner diameter of the shaft log.  This is critical, since the outer diameter of the cutless bearing will need to be machined down so that you can freeze it and gently tap it in for a very tight fit.  Put everything back together and realign the engine with feeler guage, best done after you splash as the hull takes a slightly different shape when it's blocked on the hard. So it would be good to check the condition of your engine mounts beforehand.  Mine were worn out and rusty, as it was an old boat, and they needed replacing, too.
Hope this helps.  Some other members with specific information on your boat may be able to provide better guidance.
Matthew

2
Systems / Re: Lithium Battery System
« on: January 11, 2020, 12:08:57 PM »
I have not done this yet for the main battery bank.  However, there is a lot of discussion about this on the Cruisers and Sailing forum.  That forum site would be worth a look for more information. From what I have seen there are some special considerations regarding the voltage regulator and solar charge controller settings, as well as other tips for an optimum system.
Matthew

3
General Discussion / Re: What are the best batteries for small devices?
« on: October 28, 2019, 11:42:43 AM »
Hi Sherry, that does help very much.  I will give them a try.  Thank you!
Matthew

4
General Discussion / What are the best batteries for small devices?
« on: October 26, 2019, 04:51:47 PM »
I am looking for a brand and battery chemistry to purchase for small devices such as clocks, thermostats, flashlights, CO detectors and testing tools.  I have been using Duracell for these, but find that even the very "fresh" batteries hardly last a year before they begin to leak and ruin these devices.  Perhaps this is due to the high temps, humidity and salinity here in So. Florida.
I normally change these small batteries out once a year at about this season when the time changes.
I was thinking of switching over to the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries because they are guaranteed not to leak and corrode the device.
Does anyone have a better suggestion to remedy this issue?
Thanks,
Matthew

5
Hull and Rig / Re: Barient Winch
« on: August 10, 2019, 07:51:34 AM »
Hi Cam,
The springs and pawls should be easy to find.  Aside from replacing those, most winch issues can be resolved by a good cleaning and greasing.
My main sheet winch is a Barient 27 self tailer.  I've had it apart a few times for servicing.  If I ever was to need a major part for it, I would simply purchase a used Barient 27 ST on EBay for parts.  There's a couple for sale now.  Good luck!

6
Interior / Re: Door for head
« on: July 25, 2019, 07:11:55 PM »
My guess is that it depends on if the door is stuck from moisture/humidity, or if it got locked somehow from the inside.  I would hate to use a flat bar on the frame to find out.  You could drill out the brass screw on the handle. I just tried this on my boat.  Taking the face plate off the door will not give you access to the lock.

7
Interior / Re: Door for head
« on: July 23, 2019, 05:10:21 PM »
You can only lock the door from the inside.  There is a screw on the outside handle that you could loosen and apply a crescent wrench to the shaft if you think the latch is jammed.

8
Interior / Re: Door for head
« on: July 23, 2019, 03:59:53 PM »
Would it be possible to remove the pins from the hinges on the hatch and lift that side up enough to reach the dogs, or in the alternative, unscrew the hatch spring to enter from above?

9
Engines and Drive Train / Re: Engine Re-Power CSY37
« on: June 11, 2019, 08:18:10 PM »
Hi Peter,
Have you checked out Beta Marine diesels?  Altho I have no direct experience with them, the folks on Cruisers Forum have nothing but good  things to say about them.  Based on Kubota blocks, and the parts should be cheaper than Volvo or Yanmar. Beta makes engines in the power range you are looking for.
If I was replacing an engine, some of my main concerns would be that the engine could be an easy replacement for your W40  with few modifications to the stringers, angle, etc., naturally aspirated so you don't need to do turbo maintenance, and if you can match up your existing tranny to the new engine would be a plus because if the reduction gear is different, you may need to change your prop, too.
Matthew

10
Hull and Rig / Re: Running Rigging
« on: June 01, 2019, 05:56:03 PM »
Hi Cam,
We are happy to help you out in outfitting your boat.  You can text me with photos at 3oh5 81two 577three, if you would like.  It sounds like you have a great downwind sail from STM to the USA once you are finished with your outfitting and sea trials.
Matthew

11
Hull and Rig / Re: Running Rigging
« on: May 31, 2019, 08:02:00 AM »
Hi Cam,
In addition to the estimates Don gave, here are some additional considerations.  If your new boat has the tall rig, (double sets of spreaders), your halyards will need to be longer.  I didn't see any mention of the staysail.  That will need a halyard and sheets also.  I used 1/2" for that.  On the yankee sheets, 5/8" is good, but you can go larger, up to 3/4" if desired.  Don's figure of 75' is for each yankee sheet, so you will need to procure 150'.  Do you want a spare halyard, there should be an extra sheeve for that at the mast head.  Will you be flying a spinnaker?  Roller-furler control lines, topping lift will be smaller diameter low stretch.

If I were in your situation outfitting a new to me boat in a remote place, I would probably take these calculations and purchase partial spools of 1/2"and 5/8" and not cut any of that line until it is fitted to the rig.  This way you can be sure of the measurements and not be caught a wee bit too short.  Shipping it from Atlanta or purchasing it in Sint Maartin would depend on cost and availability.
Good luck! Matthew

12
General Discussion / Re: Zippers
« on: April 24, 2019, 08:27:13 PM »
Don't use her expensive lipstick, she'll never forgive you!  Just regular lip balm or Chapstick from the local drug store.  Buy a 3 pack and you will have plenty. Happy cruising!

13
General Discussion / Zippers
« on: April 22, 2019, 07:47:47 PM »
I thought I would share this tip I learned from some other sailors.  When your zippers on the dodger, cushions, screens, etc., start to get stuck and unruly, you can apply Chapstick to them on both sides, and they will run smoothly again.  Of course you could purchase more expensive sprays and treatments from your local chandlerly, but this works well is usually available on all boats for other uses, and it's very cheap.  Should last a year or so in the sun.

14
Engines and Drive Train / Re: Gear Ratio
« on: April 17, 2019, 04:23:52 PM »
Agostino, sounds good, email sent.

15
Engines and Drive Train / Re: Gear Ratio
« on: April 16, 2019, 02:10:24 PM »
Thanks, Floyd.  If your CSY is in Miami, feel free to drop by and we may be able to share more information.  Otherwise we can do it here on the forum.  There's a lot of really experienced folks here who can help with advice on your refit.
Perhaps another owner with a Perkins 4-154 can verify the model and reduction ratio and that would help you narrow it down.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 11