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Messages - Gypsy Rose

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1
Interior / Galley port
« on: June 28, 2014, 08:49:57 am »
New Found Metals an American repped Chinese foundry does a very nice bronze port that fits with very minor modifications in the corners. I went through 3 of the plastic ports before buying the new found metals version. Benn in 7 years and no problems. comes with a screen that is a little Rube Goldberg in fitting but works.

2
Hull and Rig / chainplates inspection
« on: June 28, 2014, 08:33:19 am »
The lower bolts are embedded in the rub strake. Take the bronze rub rail off in the area and you'll see what looks like 5200 or epoxy putty filling the rounded holes where the bolt heads are buried against the actual hull. Once you have the poky removed it's an easy job to fit a socket outside and inside to remove the nut. When you replace the bolts be sure and seal the hole tight again because the coring in the strake will rot if it hasn't already. It appears to be a wood batten filler.

As others have said, the bolts and chain plates are suspect at best if they haven't already been replaced. The nuts definitely are rotten. The bolts might be OK. 4 of 6 of my chainplates were cracked. Replaced them all along with rigging, bolts and nuts.

3
Hull and Rig / Mast through deck seal
« on: December 31, 2013, 11:12:38 am »
I installed Spartite in 1996 and have been happy with it. It has not deteriorated at all and continues to work as the near prefect mast partner. I say near because it is not watertight. It is not intended to be.
When your pour it, tape a damn around the mast sleeve to create a dam that will hold about a 1/4" to 3/8" of the liquid above the lip of the mast sleeve. This will help.

I took the interior teak mast trim ring off to avoid gluing it in place and used a bead of caulk to create the lower dam. Use an easily removeable caulk though.

By the way, I used 2 kits! That's a larger hole than you think to fill!

4
Hull and Rig / Rudder Packing Gland
« on: December 31, 2013, 11:02:56 am »
Paul;
I've used Teflon impregnated flax packing for years with good results. If I'm not mistaken, the size is 1/4" or 5/16" and you need at least three wraps with the joints offset a minimum of 30 degrees. More wraps are better.
The green is cuprous oxide/corrosion. Unless it is gross, ft's not a problem. Power wire brush the fitting and check the cleaned surface. If it's not heavily pitted, it's OK.

5
Systems / Electro Scan (aka LectraSan MSD)
« on: December 01, 2013, 10:58:02 am »
judst mix at a ration of 1 muriatic to 4 water in a bucket. pour it in the head and hand pump it through until you piump dry. It'll also clean the hoses a bit. The key is to mke sure the electrosan does not activate. If you're electric, just use the manual pump handle s you don't fire up the electrosan. Let the mix sit around an hour then thoroughy mnually pump it out. I pump 100 strokes to be safe. you can use the electric head pump so lang as the electrosan des not activate. Apparently, the acid can damage the $275 electrodes.

Go to Rarttan Engineering's web-site and you can donload the manual which includes these inste=re=uctions though now they recommend a different acid instead of muriatic.

6
Systems / Electro Scan
« on: November 26, 2013, 11:20:55 am »
I'm on my second unit since '96. Installed under the forward shower seat and plumbed to the original through-hull under the sink on a 44 WO. When it works, it beats a holding tank by far. Unfortunately, my experience is that it needs a new electrode pack about every 2 years at a cost of $400. We live aboard so the usage rate is high. That means we need to clean it at least 1-2 times a year which is simply adding muriatic acid manually, let it sit for 30 minutes and manually pump it out.

You can buy a re-built one from the Raritan shop in Ft. Lauderdale for bout $700.00, but you have to go there to make sure the fittings installed match your planned installation. They refuse to sell them to you unless you go to the store. I bought both units there. Had to ship the second one back as checked baggage since I now live in Galveston.

Would I do it again? Probably, but recognize they are not maintenance free and repair is expensive and not pleasant.  

When it's working right, expect a power draw of 10 amps in the macerating phase (1-2 min.) and around 25-30 amps in the treatment cycle (2-3 min.) Beats emptying a holding tank!

By the way, the original model name was Lectra-san. They've upgraded to a new and improved version , the Electro-scan. It's supposed to draw slightly less current, but still has the problematic electrode pack.

7
Interior / So Many Interior Doors. Who has removed One or More?
« on: November 25, 2013, 12:07:28 pm »
I removed 2 doors between the shower and the head as well as the V-berth door. Used a bendable aluminum curtain track attached to the overhead with clips and 5200 to hang a shower curtain in front of the shower to salon door as well as the shower to head opening. Did it in 1996 and no regrets.

8
Forum Information and Problems / Drop Box
« on: November 25, 2013, 12:00:56 pm »
Peter;

Could you grant me access to the drop box?

Thanks!
Steven Rice Gypsy Rose WO 44

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