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Messages - Rick McClain

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1
Underway / Captain's Chair = Seat
« on: January 21, 2021, 05:10:18 pm »
I love my CSY44, however...it being a walk-over, if I sit on the lazarett just aft of the binnacle to steer, I can't see out of the very deep cockpit. If I put multiple cushions on the seat, they slide off. When away from shore and in deep water, I usually sit starboard of and next to the aft hatchway above the cockpit since my mainsail winch is on the port side of the hatch, but if I'm in lobster or crab pot float infested waters, I constantly have to get up, turn off the autopilot, steer around the pots, then return to my previous position. I single-hand so that gets tiring to say the least. Has anyone come up with a way to mount a seat that is centered behind the steering wheel that will still let you get into the aft cockpit lazarette and that raises you high enough to see out of the cockpit? Is there another solution?

2
Swap Meet / Doyle Mainsail for Sail - $2500
« on: July 20, 2017, 11:56:43 pm »
I have a Never Used Doyle Cruising Mainsail for sail. It was cut for a CSY 44 and used as a back-up, but has been stored clean and dry since its purchase. It is in perfect, never used condition.
Luff - 42.5 ft.
Foot - 15.5 ft.
Triple Stitching
4 Battens
2 Reefing Points located at 70" from the foot and 144" from the foot
Flying Cringles at reefing points for use with double ram's horn reefing hooks
Approximately 12" of Roach
Since it has never been used, I don't have any photos of it rigged, but can supply photos of it laying out on the ground with close-ups of details.
Sail is all white with Doyle logo.
This sail originally cost over $4000 and I have contacted a consignment seller that has said he'd probably ask around $2700 for it in his shop.
I'll take $2500 for it.
Buyer arranges for and pays for shipping.
As of July 2017 I am currently living aboard CSY44 Island Time in Boot Key Harbor, Marathon, Florida.
Although this sail was designed for a CSY44, obviously it would fit any sailboat with these dimensions.
     I am selling this sail because my boat Island Time has a roller furling system, so I have no need for this sail, which is designed to be reefed.
       If you need a new mainsail, this is a great buy.
        Contact Rick McClain - (801) 484-8488 or through this forum.

3
Systems / Re: Isotherm Refrigerator Cycles On/Off and Won't Cool
« on: September 12, 2016, 10:55:11 am »
     Chip was absolutely correct. It did, indeed, turn out to be the controller, not the more expensive compressor. Thank You! If it had been the compressor, not only is it much more expensive, but I'd have had to lease a slip so a repairman could work on the boat, and hired the repairman to come and replace the unit, then draw the vacuum and replace the refrigerant. I'm sure it would have run over $1000, maybe $1500 or more. Way expensive. As it was, all I needed to do was purchase a controller for about $150, unplug the old one and plug the new one in.
       I say only $150. If this same electronics had been in some toy at Walmart, it would have probably only cost about $25-$30.  ;D

4
As a follow-up, I wanted to let everyone know that the deterioration of the heat exchanger, whos tube bundle is made of bronze and housing is made of aluminum, was probably initially caused by the fact that I didn't know there was supposed to be a sacrificial zinc on the engine. In fact, I had been told that there were none and that Perkins doesn't use them. Obviously not true. However, I thought I had looked everywhere on the engine and couldn't find any. I, also, looked in the Perkins parts manual and found none, and no mention of any. Upon being told where to look, on a pipe between the heat exchanger for the engine, which is the one that was being eaten up, and the heat exchanger for the transmission, there was, indeed, one zinc, hidden at the rear of the engine below the air intake. It is merely described as a "plug" in the parts book. All the zinc had dissolved, thus the aluminum housing was the next item on the "less noble" list. I'll be watching my zincs carefully from now on. I don't want to go through this again!

5
Systems / Isotherm Refrigerator Cycles On/Off and Won't Cool
« on: June 19, 2016, 01:20:21 pm »
Hi,
   My 12vdc Isotherm Refrigerator with Danfoss controller starts, runs for a minute or two, then shuts off, and restarts immediately, but won't cool at all. I don't know if this is important, but before I shut it down recently for a haul out, it was running almost constantly and cooling to 15 to 20 degrees in the middle of the compartment.
     There seems to be a sensor that is shutting it down, but I can't locate it and don't know why it would since the cooling water is flowing well and neither the pump or compressor gets hot to the touch, and both seem to be running.
     The unit is cooled with the fresh water in my tanks, and I can hear the water being returned to the tank. I've also removed the sacrificial zinc and allowed water to run out there, just to make sure the flow is good. I've removed all the wires entering the controller and re-inserted each one to clean them. The unit is getting 12.8v at the controller from my house bank that reads 12.96v while the unit runs, and it draws about 6.5 amps as both the compressor and water pump start up each time, but draws very little while it is running, not changing until it shuts down, then immediately restarts. There is some kind of 4 wire switch between the compressor and the pump, and since I had a spare, I put the new one in, but it made no difference. I've removed the thermostat from the circuitry, and that made no difference either.
    I think I almost forgot to mention the most important facts. A pressure/vacuum gauge installed on the low side reads 90 lb. when the unit is running, drops to 83 lb. when it shuts off and will not accept any refrigerant. Being a photographer, not a refrigeration specialist, I don't know what that is indicating, but it certainly seems wrong. It won't draw a vacuum at all.
      I've run out of ideas for a cure and am hoping some unlucky sole on the forum has had the same problem and can help me out with a solution.
      Thanks, Rick McClain on CSY44 Island Time.

6
Hi,
     I guess my heat exchanger is original. I gave up trying to find someone to do the work or finding a replacement. I wish I could have posted all the pictures here on the forum so they would be here for good, but there were too many, too large.

      Here's what I did:  http://Photographers1.com/HeatExchanger/

See my nautical dictionary here: http://www.Photographers1.com/Sailing/NauticalTerms&Nomenclature.html

     Thanks to everyone for their help.
           Rick McClain

7
Thanks Soggy Paws and Jules,
      I had already contacted Transatlantic and several others. TAD was the one that quoted me $800 for the aluminum housing/body. I'm working down the list of links that Soggy Paws sent me. Great resource list.
       Thanks again.

8
Engines and Drive Train / Heat Exchanger Identification and Sources
« on: April 05, 2016, 02:27:29 pm »
Hi, My heat exchanger has degraded on one end where the cap had buckled and leaked. I am hoping I can get it welded and machined back to spec, but am at Marco Island, FL. and am having problems finding someone that can do the welding and machine work.
     I may have to resort to buying a new or used one with the commensurate time and monetary extensions. I can't even figure out who made this part or find suppliers. Sabre thinks they can get one from England in about 4 to  6 weeks, but I don't want to be stuck here for that long. Someone else quoted me $800 for the housing only...too much.
      This is on a Perkins/Sabre M92   4.236 Liter diesel engine in my CSY44.
I need the following parts, derived from a Sabre Parts PFD :

 Front Cap #33902
 Plug  #33948
 O Ring  #10171   - 2ea.
 Body Casing  #34467

My tube stack seems to be in good condition.

Can anyone help me out with information on the maker, suppliers, machine shop nearby, etc. Even a used one in good condition would work for me. I can't find one anywhere. None of my numbers are similar to any numbers I see on any of the internet sites.

See photos at: http://Photographers1.com/HeatExchanger/

9
Hull and Rig / Re: Gudgeon (Heel Plate) Bolts on CSY 44 WO
« on: September 23, 2015, 03:43:40 pm »
Thanks Matthew,
      I still haven't found out what size these bolts are, but certainly appreciate your idea for the quick haul out. I may have a chance to use that in the future, however, it's looking like I need several other items tended to now, too.
      Sorry it took so long to reply. I thought I would be notified by email when I got replies to this post, but that didn't happen.

10
Hull and Rig / Re: Gudgeon Bolts on CSY 44 WO
« on: August 07, 2015, 01:51:21 pm »
The reason I think they need to be replaced is that during the survey when I was buying the boat, I noticed that one of the bolts looked like it had some corrosion on it. The broker reached over and picked at it with his finger and the head of the bolt literally fell off. I wasn't smart enough to know at the time that the bolts should be bronze or to have them replace that bolt right then. Now it's going to cost me.  The surveyor put that on the "Must Do" list, and now my insurance agency is indicating that it needs to be done soon. I'd hate to have to have to pay $450 to have the boat hauled out just because one $20 bolt is bad. I didn't even look to see if they were stainless steel, but everyone there said that the head of the bolt had been wrongly covered with a sealer and that would cause crevice corrosion in stainless steel and had ruined that bolt. The other bolts looked okay and several other people have indicated that there should really be no immediate concern, but that it should certainly be replaced at the next normal haul out, which I was hoping would be quite away down the road.

11
Hull and Rig / Re: Gudgeon Bolts on CSY 44 WO
« on: August 05, 2015, 11:19:48 am »
Thanks for the great info. Not exactly what I was hoping to hear, but I certainly don't want water inside the rudder.
      Still hoping for information on the exact size. I'd love to have them in hand when I get pulled out of the water. Having to size them after I'm out could add days to my time out of water waiting for delivery of the bolts.
        Thanks again,
            Rick McClain on Island Time

12
Hull and Rig / Gudgeon Bolts on CSY 44 WO
« on: August 04, 2015, 05:00:54 pm »
Hi,
    New owner of "Island Time" here. I need to replace one or all gudgeon bolts on the rudder of the boat and wonder if anyone knows the exact size and or designation I need to purchase for it.  Also, I'm pretty sure that this can be done in the water, but wondered if anyone knows a good reason that it cannot.I'd hate to have to have her pulled out of the water to replace just bolts.  Am I in for any surprises?
        Thanks.
              Rick McClain

13
Hi,
   I am searching for a CSY to buy and would like to know all about your boat. Where is it located? What doesn't work on her? What modifications have you made to her? What equipment have you installed on her? Do you have more photos of her? Etc. Would you please send me your contact information?
   Thanks,
      You can contact me in the Houston area at: (801) 484-8488 or Rick at Photographers1 dot com

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