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Topics - Soggy Paws

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Engines and Drive Train / Perkins 4-154 Front Main Crankshaft Lip Seal
« on: December 17, 2014, 03:52:06 PM »
I was in Ft Lauderdale today looking for a Front Main Crankshaft Lip Seal for my Perkins 4-154 old-style North American engine.  This part is out of stock within Perkins.  However, I was able to find one at Florida Bearing, by taking my old lip seal there.  The part number at Florida Bearing is SKF 19832.  The manufacturer is www.vsf.skf.com.

Hope this help someone else.

Dave

2
Hull and Rig / Code 0/Asymmetrical Attachment
« on: December 15, 2014, 10:22:35 AM »
This issue may have been addressed somewhere else on the forums, but I couldn't find it, so here it is as a new subject before I delete it from my drafts folder.

This is an interesting problem for us light wind sailors.  Six years ago when I bought my Code 0 and Facnor furler I did not want to cut up or jeopardize the integrity of the anchor roller tray in order to mount it.
 
So I tied in a shackle to the top of the bail on my longer port roller tray and attached the bottom of the furler there.  It worked until I got a bit of breeze and the Code 0 started to pull up the roller tray.  So I added a SS wire dolphin striker cable and turnbuckle from the forward end of the roller tray to the stem just above the water line.  I also added an aluminum block under the fore stay toggle and above the roller tray slot to stop upward movement of the tray.  This block was Ron's idea.  Those two things have held the tray in place well.
 
Then we had a problem with rolling up part of the upper section of the Code 0 into the jib when furling the jib in down wind conditions.  There needed to be more separation between the two sails.  My solution was to buy a section of strong local hardwood that would just lay flat in the port roller tray and under the bail, with a small amount of trimming and the roller removed.  About a 4"x4" piece fit nicely and had plenty of beef.  Then I pinned the aft end with a vertical bolt run through the hardwood and roller tray.  Since the pull is up at the forward end, and down at the aft end, I just needed the bolt to hold it in place.  To finish I installed a strong thru bolt eye in the forward end of the hardwood.  Now all is well and we can install the Code 0 and furler for underway trips and leave it up until we arrive.  So now we have 4 sails to select from without having to get anything from storage. 

A final problem has to do with chafe where the Code 0 halyard goes over the jib stay on one tack.  There is a good possibility of chafe there, especially when going up wind, so I have installed spectra chafe protection there on the Code 0 halyard.

After we arrive somewhere we store the Code 0 and furler below to get it out of the sun.  If there is a chance I might want a second anchor, not very likely with a 99 lb Spade as a primary, I remove the hardwood and re-install the roller on the port tray, about a 15 minute job.

Dave

3
Hull and Rig / Stern Arch
« on: August 20, 2014, 11:03:04 PM »
For those contemplating adding an arch to the back of their boat here is some info I recently included in another post to Richard Hood that might be food for thought:


Re the Arch in a Box that is sold by Atlantic Towers in New Jersey, be VERY CAREFUL dealing with Shelley at the company.  She is sometimes not straight forward in responding to your questions partly because she does not write well and partly because she is not well informed about details.

Check everything in the box you receive including all the bolt and screw attachments.  Believe only what you can verify with your own eyes, and know that they will only take unused/wrong parts back for credit with a 10% restocking surcharge.  They sent us mismatched arch sides so that when installed the center of the arch is not in the center of the boat, an outboard motor davit that is unuseable with the arch mounted motor mounts, and a buggered screw with the tap still in the hole in the davit arm.  They way overcharge for the Garlick outboard brackets.  The installation instructions are very basic and for a power boat.  I still have almost $400 in parts that I couldn't use.  And they were very late getting our order off and almost missed the boat carrying our stuff to Fiji.

But the arch is up now and is working well with all our stuff hanging off it.  We used the in line arch bows and mounted the forward pads just inside the toe rail and the aft pads in the middle of the angled section of the topsides near the end of the side of the boat.  You will need a few extra parts to do it that way but it gives you more width aft.  We ran all our wiring up both sides of the forward bow.  We added two posts up from the flat plates on both sides of the top of the arch.  These hold a long 1.5" aluminum pipe running athwart-ships that holds three big solar panels so they can rotate forward and aft to follow the sun during the day.  They are strongly mounted and have been up in 60 knots, but are removable and can be stowed below in case of a tropical cyclone.  A VHF antenna, small solar garden lights and two wind sensors are mounted off the PVC caps on the ends of this pipe so they don't shade the panels.  The radar is mounted UNDER the panels and is useable when the panels are secured flat as they are when we are at sea.  We also have an Amseco alarm siren/light, stern boarding/anchor light, stern navigation light and dinghy davit arms mounted on the arch.

So it all works well for us now.  We may have been one of their first sailboat customers and I spent considerable time communicating with Shelley about all the problems.  So maybe they learned from that experience.  Just be careful dealing with them, be sure Shelley's communications are clear, be sure you order only what you need and it will work for you, and be sure all your communications that are important are in writing.

There are some pics and a write up on our website on our blog under 'Radar Arch'.

Dave

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