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Topics - Brett

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Systems / Fuel tank access hatches and Permatex
« on: August 06, 2019, 10:59:30 am »
During a recent trip to Cuba we experienced an issue with our fuel supply.  In 2015 when we discovered a boatyard had failed to clean our Racors and replace the filters (which they were paid to do and I had to do) we began having a fuel supply issue that would either cause one tank to drain while the other stayed full or clog the pickup and stall the engine. During a fuel polishing I discovered that there were small reddish orange blobs in the fuel which turned out to be Permatex sealant.  I was concerned that the silicone was coming from some undisclosed leak that had been sealed with this product.  Fortunately, it was coming from the access hatches which were sealed down with permatex.  As our tanks are replacement tanks the hatches are semi easy to reach through the helm seat. I purchased some Buna-N gasket material on Amazon for $14 a square and made some custom gaskets for the hatches. I had been told the material was prohibitively expensive and that was why the sealant had been used but it must have become cheaper over the last few years.  So, if you have some of this sealant used in your fuel system be sure and get rid of it.....

General Discussion / Anyone planning to be in Melbourne for the Gam ?
« on: November 01, 2016, 11:05:17 pm »
I don't think Dave and Sherry will be here this year.....if people are interested I can call Memaw's the Friday evening before we'd like to have the breakfast and set up a table......unless someone is already on it and Imissed the here and I'll put a head count together......thanks....

Hull and Rig / Rigging tension range scale for 44WO short mast
« on: October 30, 2016, 05:04:31 pm »
Last year we had our rigging inspected, had the tensions checked and had the stay-loc fittings inspected as well.  This year we had to haul out for Hurricane Matthew which involved removing our forestay and roller furling for the lift.  Once we relaunched, I checked the tension on the rigging just to be sure.  The mast was still straight port to starboard with no waves in the sail track or other indications of deformation.  The actual rigging tension measurements were very symmetrical but I wasn't sure what the recommended scale range was for this style rig?  We did mark the forestay turnbuckle so we were able replicate where it was after the inspection and before the haulout.  Anyone have a resource for the proper tension ranges ?  Thanks.....

Interior / Affordable resource for a Single bowl galley sink
« on: September 10, 2016, 02:16:40 pm »
Hello wife has always wanted to replace our double bowl stainless sink with a large single bowl stainless sink.  It just didn't become one of those projects that got to the top of our list.  Recently we had to remove the existing sink and in the process discovered that it was held in by a copious amount of 3M 5200....needless to say the sink was bent in the process of removing it so we began to seriously look for a replacement. Since the sink was 17" front to back it was impossible to find a mass produced replacement in any boat or RV stores (and we searched and called for weeks while working our way back up the Keys).  We got some custom fabrication quotes ranging from $1,000 to $1,500 so that seemed like a dead end. Until we came upon a fabricator from near our old home town who made us a new sink for $250 !!!! We just installed it today so some photos will be coming but we are very pleased so far.  If anyone is in a similar position and wants a new sink please let me know and I can get you the contact info for the gentleman who made ours. 

Systems / Port side diesel tank not sending fuel
« on: November 15, 2015, 02:59:11 pm »
When we headed south this year, we noticed about two days in that our port side diesel tank wasn't using any diesel.  We usually have a small discrepancy between what comes from each tank but it is usually only a couple of gallons difference.  This time the port side tank used zero fuel the entire trip south so we just kept filling the starboard side tank till we arrived in Florida.  I assumed it was some sort of growth or blockage and set to change the Racor filters and see if I could purge the lines and maybe get a tank cleaning service to come to the boat.  Today while I was trying to figure out where the blockage was I put a manual diesel transfer pump on the port side tank fuel outlet and gave it a few pumps and it just moved it possible that the fuel pickup hose has come loose from the fitting at the top of the tank and that's why we didn't get any diesel from that tank? I guess I assumed those were one piece brass  tubes that were welded to the outlet elbow at the top of the tank.....I reversed the hand pump and could see the air blowing on the surface of the diesel in the tank......anyone ever heard of the fuel pickup line becoming separated like this?  Thanks.....

Systems / Steering sheaves
« on: November 07, 2015, 10:45:39 am »
Recently, I was inspecting our autopilot, quadrant, cable and sheaves.  I noticed that our upper port side sheave wasn't turning more that 15 degrees.  The cable is still solid, not showing any undue wear or broken strands.  We still have the bronze pins which I am replacing with the stainless pins.  But I don't know much about the sheaves....can the needle bearing in those be replaced by a machine shop or do you have to order all new sheaves ? Which run about $500 each......ouch....

Systems / Manufacturer of CSY thru hulls
« on: August 17, 2015, 07:44:57 pm »
Hello All,  we recently had Kitty Hawk hauled out for some work and had the thru hulls inspected....bad news at least four of the thru hull barrels are worn to the point that they won't reseal  when reassembled......the yard, Deaton's in Oriental, NC, say they are unfamiliar with the brand and where to obtain replacement barrels....anyone have any ideas?  Thanks in advance

Systems / Jabsco belt driven house water pressure pumps
« on: May 15, 2015, 07:26:13 pm »
Recently, I had  to rebuild our Jabsco belt driven, house water pressure pump.  After reinstalling the pump I could not manage to get the system up to operating pressure.  The pump ran but generated no pressure.  I had assumed there was a leak or air in the system.   After several hours of tracing the waterlines looking for the leaks and bleeding the system repeatedly I gave up and thought I would try a fresh approach the next day.   It was very frustrating.  The next morning I turned the pump on and the system pressurized within 60 seconds.  A tech at a pump rebuilding company told me that despite the fact that the pumps are marketed as "self priming" that in many instances pump is unable to overcome the distance between the water tank and allowing gravity pressure to slowly feed the pump is the easiest way to prime the pump.  I thought this information might save someone else the hours of aggravation in the future.....

Swap Meet / Boatsafe 750W engine room heater (New in Box) $225
« on: April 20, 2015, 09:38:47 am »
I bought two of these in a closeout when Boatsafe discontinued these in favor of the 1000W version. As it turns out we only need one. These normally retailed for $395.

Systems / Battery settings when away from your boat.....
« on: April 12, 2015, 06:25:51 pm »
Hello all,  we have been experimenting with different switch setups for our batteries when we leave the boat for a month or so.  I was initially told it was a good idea to leave the start battery isolated but every time I have done that when we get back it is low/dead.  It is a deep cycle group 31 marine starting battery.  I am guessing that is because it is isolated from shore/solar charging and the bilge pump may be running a little while we are gone.  Also probably some of the self discharge involved also.  When we return, realize it won't start the diesel and I switch the barrel switch back to "all" after five minutes or so it is charged enough to start the diesel and I can switch back to just the start battery and fire the diesel up.  "All" setting ties our ten house batteries in (Trojan T105's).  House batteries are <6months old, start battery Cells are always full of water and battery is <10 months old and has been tested for bad cells.  I am curious what others do? Leave all batteries connected via the barrel switch or other method to keep start battery charge level up then switch it back before firing up the diesel or am I missing something?

Systems / Fireboy/Xintex CO detectors
« on: November 27, 2014, 10:35:16 am »
I recently learned something interesting about CO detectors which has prompted me to post this.....

I didn't realize that newer CO detectors (made in the last decade) have a built in timer, powered by a small lithium battery that counts down the service life of the detector.  This service life was recently shortened to five years due to UL standards.  This timer starts at the factory when the unit is assembled.  A detector I purchased about 18 months ago, that I installed, began malfunctioning last month and I sent it to the manufacturer for testing. As it turns out it was manufactured over seven years ago and had reached its "timeout time". I wish I could recall where I purchased it so I could avoid buying from that place again since they are obviously selling units way past their shelf life with very little service life left.  I didn't realize how pricey those things have become ....MSRP of $166 ....ouch...if you buy one be sure to check the circuit board for the manufacture date before you leave the store or install it. Fireboy/Xintex did offer me a unit for $120 but fortunately I can buy one at West Marine for $119 minus the holiday discounts so that's not much of a deal.  Hope this helps someone else avoid this issue....

Systems / Troubleshooting a Frigiboat K50F
« on: November 06, 2014, 08:01:24 am »
I recently had our freezer compressor stop cooling.  I checked the gas pressure which was good.  I had the whole system triple flushed, vacuumed and recharged six months ago.  I jumped the thermostat connections and it ran briefly but still didn't cool.  Later it stopped running and would only attempt to start for a second or two then shut down again.  I checked the thermostat and had good continuity on that line.  I have appropriate voltage at the connections.  The  fan runs as usual.  I can't seem to get any diagnostic codes from the controller either.....can I run power straight to the compressor without damaging it?  I also thought I'd take the controller off if the compressor would run and send it in to Coastal Climate for testing.  Any suggestions or thoughts ? Thanks

Systems / Winterizing
« on: October 23, 2014, 06:14:25 pm »
Any thoughts on to what degree (pun intended) to winterize for a winter season in the Oriental/New Bern NC area?  We are considering leaving the boat there for the winter (first time) rather than making the trip back south due to some parental health issues. I hate the idea of a full blown winter treatment but I'm not sure there's a way to avoid it AND be secure in the knowledge nothing will freeze or become damaged.  Any thoughts? Thanks

Hull and Rig / Mast Height CSY 37 Deep Draft
« on: August 31, 2014, 10:15:22 pm »
I've done a fair bit of Googling and searched on here without any luck. Wondering if anyone can save me the trip up the stick by telling me what the mast height is on a 1979 37 Plan b with original mast?

I've read a few different things and not sure if they came in different heights or not..

Hull and Rig / Still Looking for original Yankee measurements 37b
« on: August 06, 2014, 05:33:19 pm »
I've removed my roller furling and we are ready to order a new sail, I'd like to recreate the original high cut yankee but have not had any luck getting the measurements. It seems like everybody has abandoned this sail for a large genny and I"m trying to go back the other way! Or at this point if anyone has one for sale (hank on) let me know..

I could really use the help, I'd like to make a trip next month and a headsail would help ;-)



P.S. A member did respond to a post many months ago but I never heard from them again, which is why I'm still looking.

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