Messages

1

General Discussion / Re: Trip Harrison painting

« on: May 25, 2019, 05:53:34 PM »

Definitely CSY 44 from charter with heavy hard dinghy.  Looks like walkthru with big cabin windows. Not Marathon as no hills there.  Maybe Roatan as buildings look right.

2

Hull and Rig / Re: Staysail boom

« on: May 20, 2019, 07:16:33 PM »

ChrisK, if you are going cruising with that boat you would be much better off getting rid of the staysail boom, getting a roller furler for it and rigging sheets aft.  You will use the sail much more, it can be reefed as a storm jib and you will not have to worry about it hitting you if you go forward in a storm.  I did mine years ago.
 There has been much written on this subject in the past.  Try doing a search for the posts.  Dave

3

Hull and Rig / Re: Installing New Life Lines

« on: May 20, 2019, 07:11:37 PM »

Marlene.  I did ours years ago because the white plastic coated lifeline wires had cracks in the plastic and I had read horror stories about sailors falling overboard when their lifeline hardware broke.  SS wire inside a tight plastic looks good for a couple of years but is asking for trouble later on.                                             In order of preference the options include Spectra/Dynema inside a Polyester sheath, bare but UV coated line, bare SS wire, and plastic coated wire.  My first choice and what I used is polyester sheathed Spectra/Dynema as it is as strong as the wire, does not corrode, is easy to tie knots in, resists UV degradation, is easily replaced, no fittings needed, can be made very tight without turnbuckles, and is inexpensive compared to the other options.  Ours was 10 years old and still looked good when we sold the boat.  Email me if you decide to do this.  Dave

4

General Discussion / Re: CSY 44

« on: October 07, 2018, 10:27:13 AM »

Hi Marlene,
Big difference between a CSY 44 and a 33.  For one person a 33 should be fine as a liveaboard coastal.  For long distance cruising bigger is usually better because of the load carrying capacity, but it is a lot of boat for a single hander.  Both are excellent boats if in good shape--look very carefully at any purchase options.   Your ability to handle docking on either depends on how good you are at it. They are both very heavy boats for their size.  Our 44 cat weighs half what our CSY 44 did.                                                                                                                                              No need to buy a separate manual windlass as most electrics come with manual back up and they are pretty reliable.  A single hander will benefit from a wireless remote available on the internet for about $15.  Marine versions are $200.  I recommend Lofrans Tigres for the 44 and next smaller Lofrans for the 33.  I have extensive experience with both.                                                                                                                                                    If you want to discuss in more detail see us in Melbourne after about 17 Oct.                                               Dave and Sherry

5

Engines and Drive Train / Re: Secondary fuel filter adapter replaced... Works great.

« on: March 04, 2018, 11:45:29 PM »

Doug,
I rarely had to change fuel filters because I cleaned my tank periodically and used Biobor JF additive.  But when I finally changed that one for the first time that was enough.  Complete Yachts, the Perkins dealer in Ft Lauderdale, sold me a spin on adapter for my 4154 for $35.  That was 1998.  They are still in business and I suspect still sell the adapter kits for most Perkins models. 
Whoever designed the original should be banished from engine design.

Dave

6

Underway / Re: Hurricanes Irma and Maria

« on: October 23, 2017, 01:25:32 PM »

Matthew,

The new Rocna Vulcan came out after we had bought the Spade.  The two look almost the same.  Maybe because the Spade patent ran out in 2016.  Can you tell us what you think of it?  As good setting as the Rocna?
Dave

7

Underway / Re: Hurricanes Irma and Maria

« on: October 21, 2017, 11:21:08 PM »

Matthew,

Thanks for that info on which anchors held and which did not in the recent hurricane.  I have had both a Delta 88 and 55 and a Fortress FX 37.  Based on my experience with these I would have expected what happened to you; the older Delta plow dragged in soft mud and the Fortress and more modern Rocna scoop did not. 
We sold our Delta 5 years ago and have used a big Spade scoop anchor since then with much better results in soft bottoms.  This is a good example of modern technology bringing us better anchors.

Dave

8

Systems / Re: Lightening grounding strip mounting flush or with a gap?

« on: September 27, 2017, 01:58:19 PM »

It has been a long time since I did that installation and we have sold the boat.  As I recall the literature recommended leaving about a 1/2" gap between the hull and copper bar so that as the strike dissipates along the edge it won't damage the hull so much.  So I used small squares of Starboard with holes in the center for the bronze mounting bolts.  The rest is as described in the writeup.

A lightning strike is a really scary thing and who knows how much this will help.  But it made me feel better about it.

Dave

9

Systems / Re: 44 WT blower for frig and engine and battery exhaust

« on: September 16, 2017, 12:54:55 PM »

I owned WT 35 Soggy Paws for 20 years.
 
I cut 4" vent holes in the outside of the cockpit combing as you are contemplating- port side for the engine room vent blower and starboard side for the galley vent blower over the stove.  If you use the type of vent hole covers that also have a plate that will keep out rain and ocean spray you can use that when needed.   The vent blowers make a lot of noise so you won't want to run them for long unless the engine is running.
 
Mounting the refrig systems above the refrig boxes is a bad idea both from a heat standpoint but also access is difficult.  How about moving them down to under the small seat just inside of the aft cabin?  I installed my refrig compressor there and vented it with a muffin fan out the inboard wall.

You should also consider moving your batteries out of the engine room.  Heat when the engine is charging the batteries is a battery killer.  I split my house bank, one set under the nav table and the other in place of the trash bin.

For the refrig systems an option would be to use large quieter muffin fans to remove heat from the Danfoss compressors.  If you are running them at full speed the literature says you must do that.  The permanent fix is  is a Frigoboat keel cooler system.

Finally, if you are going to be cruising in the tropics I recommend using only solar as an alternate energy source, no wind.  650 watts is enough to recharge to 100% on a daily basis 98% of the time.

See my notes on these issues on our website SVSoggypaws.com/Workshop

Dave

10

Interior / Re: Port Light - Dogs

« on: May 26, 2017, 07:40:06 PM »

Peter,

Long ago I bought several to replace some of mine on Soggy Paws at Don's Salvage in Clearwater, FL.  They are all SS and don't quite look like the originals but they fit with a SS wingnut.  They were a couple of dollars each and he had a box full.

Dave

11

Systems / Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement

« on: April 23, 2017, 08:00:01 PM »

Roger,

This is from a much earlier post to someone else.  We did not need to remove the rudder just the prop.  Use a puller not a big  hammer to remove the prop!

If your WT hull number is close to ours, #35, then our construction should be exactly the same in that area.  The fglas stern tubes are all made separately and of the same dimensions.   The factory installed the stern tube and most boats still have the original.  They are available and replaceable, though maybe a bigger job than you are contemplating.  Ours (and yours), according to the plans, should be flush with the aft end of the short stub keel area that holds the shaft and cutlass bearing.

Your cutlass bearing has probably been changed multiple times since original.  Whoever installs the cutlass bearing determines whether or not it protrudes and how much.  However, there is a compromise to be made here.  Less is probably better as anything sticking out will not be supported, but no protrusion also makes it more difficult to remove the bearing.  You certainly would not want to leave it out more than an inch.  I found and have continued to leave ours sticking out about 5/8", just enough to grab with a pipe wrench. 

There are several ways to install the cutlass, some easier to remove than others.  The first time I removed mine in 1999 it took me over 2 hours to get it out with a pipe wrench and a lot of twisting.  Maybe it could have been done faster with a fine saw blade, but that also seemed like a lot of work.

Since then I have used the following method from a pro installer from CA:
-Thoroughly clean the inside of the stern tube's aft 6" of all foreign material and ensure it is round and smooth.
-Carefully hand sand the new cutlass bearing until it is a snug fit, not tight or loose.  This shouldn't take more than 15 minutes or something might be wrong with the tube or bearing.
-Coat the outside of the BEARING ONLY with Marine Silicone and slide it into the stern tube until about 5/8" proud.  Twist the bearing 1/4 turn.
-Let the Silicone set overnight.
-Reinstall the set screws by dimpling the bearing from outside, being careful not to damage the fiberglass threads.  I use 1/4" Pan Head machine screws.  If you have none, take the time to install them.
-Consider installing a clam scoop to lubricate the bearing through one side of the stern tube if you have none.  It will significantly increase the life of the cutlass bearing.
-I've had no problems with this arrangement during 14 years of use, and can remove the old bearing in less than 5 minutes with an easy twist with a pipe wrench.  It now takes longer to remove the set screws than the bearing.  Once you start the twist the silicone's slipperyness facilitates the bearing's removal.
-For a bearing's long life it is important that it have good water lubrication, proper shaft alignment and the protruding shaft be no longer than 6" from stern tube to front of the prop hub.  Mine is still tight now on the shaft after 7 years.  Prior to this last installation, I made all three of the above mistakes, causing premature bearing failure.

Hope this helps.

Dave

12

Systems / Re: Refridgeration

« on: February 25, 2017, 07:33:35 AM »

Jules.
We find that for long term overseas cruising 3-4 cuft of freezer and 8-11 cuft of refrig are about right.  We like fresh veggies, cold drinks and a place to keep fresh meat/fish long term.  We much prefer a side loading refrig for its convenience and quick food extraction.  You can't change that.
I am not familiar enough with the 44WO to know where is best for the compressor.  Just don't put it in the engine room and make sure you have good ventilation.

Dave

13

Systems / Re: Refridgeration

« on: February 22, 2017, 06:49:54 PM »

Jules,

What boat do you have?
 
The keel cooler needs to be within 5' of the compressor and you want the compressor in a well ventilated space where you can have a small muffin fan run across the top of the compressor.  I mounted a muffin fan on top of the electronic control unit next to the compressor with velcro.  From there it blows across the top of the compressor and removes excess compressor heat.

On the 44 walkthru I mounted the compressor for the refrig in the aft cabin under the small seat in the fwd stbd corner of the room.  It already has a wooden vent screen.

I built the freezer under the main cabin table so it may be different from yours.

Dave

14

Systems / Re: Refridgeration

« on: February 21, 2017, 07:28:25 PM »

Jules,

A couple of other quick notes:

It would be worth your time to read Nigel Calder's 3 edition Mech and Elec Manual section on refrigeration.  It will give you great detail and help on making decisions on equipment and installation.  Look especially at his testing of various insulation materials.  I took his advice and used extruded polystyrene (blue or pink board) on my freezer on the CSY and now refrig on the cat.  Hard to beat R value of 6.5 and no water absorption.

Don't stress too much about drilling the 1.5 inch keel cooler hole in your hull.  The keel cooler you install is stronger than any hull, has no valve to leak, and if done carefully you will have no problems and a big amp benefit.

If you are considering the Isotherm equivalent, it works, but is less efficient because it is in enclosed space and needs some boat motion to get rid of the heat.  See Calder and others on this. 

We found that the Frigoboat keel cooler can also work if on low speed while on the hard if you drip some water on it over a rag.  We have used that method for months on the hard here in the Philippines with no problem.

Dave

15

Systems / Re: Refridgeration

« on: February 18, 2017, 08:56:27 PM »

Jules,

I'm not sure why someone would consider cycling on and off a negative.  Unless it is right in your ear you can't hear the compressor anyway.  A little muffin cooling fan makes more noise than the compressor! By constantly cycling like your home refrig, it can keep the box temp within about 2 degrees.  It does not harm the compressor.  A big reciprocating compressor could not do that. 

You are right about the holding plate negative.  They have a big box temp swing.  Mine saw about 15 degrees while holding over about 8 hours.  And that was with proper R20 insulation for the refrig and R30 for the freezer.  There are many other negatives for holding plates vs evaporator plates too so research carefully.  Just remember that not everything you hear or read is true.  The competition among refrig salesmen is intense.

Once you figure out your box sizes and insulation R value, Frigoboat has an excellent section on their website that will help you size an efficient compressor and evaporator plate.  A little bigger than calculated will be better as it will allow you to run the compressor at its lowest speed giving up to 30% more amp efficient system compared to running the compressor at high speed.  My new Danfoss based system used exactly the same amp hours the old holding plate system did and that was what the Frigoboat literature said it would use.  With two separate BD50 systems running at low speed cooling an 11 cuft side loading refrig and a 3 cu ft top loading freezer we used about 80 ahrs on a daily basis in the tropics.  Just make sure your insulation is right and door gaskets are tight.

If you want better efficiency over an air or water cooled system consider the keel cooler system which is what we are using.  The big benefit is saving about 15 amps a day over the others.  This system has no big cooling fan or water pump run heat exchanger.

Dave


Dave

Dave