CSY Owners Forum

General Category => Systems => Topic started by: Merrily on April 20, 2017, 08:16:59 pm

Title: Cutlass Bearing Replacement
Post by: Merrily on April 20, 2017, 08:16:59 pm
Hi, Anyone done a cutlass bearing replacement on a CSY 44?
Q1. Do you need to drop the rudder to get the prop shaft out.
Q2. Any recommendations or ideas welcome.
My CSY 44 named Merrily is on the hardstand at Sammy's Boat Yard in Falmouth Harbour.
Title: Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement
Post by: Soggy Paws on April 23, 2017, 08:00:01 pm

This is from a much earlier post to someone else.  We did not need to remove the rudder just the prop.  Use a puller not a big  hammer to remove the prop!

If your WT hull number is close to ours, #35, then our construction should be exactly the same in that area.  The fglas stern tubes are all made separately and of the same dimensions.   The factory installed the stern tube and most boats still have the original.  They are available and replaceable, though maybe a bigger job than you are contemplating.  Ours (and yours), according to the plans, should be flush with the aft end of the short stub keel area that holds the shaft and cutlass bearing.

Your cutlass bearing has probably been changed multiple times since original.  Whoever installs the cutlass bearing determines whether or not it protrudes and how much.  However, there is a compromise to be made here.  Less is probably better as anything sticking out will not be supported, but no protrusion also makes it more difficult to remove the bearing.  You certainly would not want to leave it out more than an inch.  I found and have continued to leave ours sticking out about 5/8", just enough to grab with a pipe wrench. 

There are several ways to install the cutlass, some easier to remove than others.  The first time I removed mine in 1999 it took me over 2 hours to get it out with a pipe wrench and a lot of twisting.  Maybe it could have been done faster with a fine saw blade, but that also seemed like a lot of work.

Since then I have used the following method from a pro installer from CA:
-Thoroughly clean the inside of the stern tube's aft 6" of all foreign material and ensure it is round and smooth.
-Carefully hand sand the new cutlass bearing until it is a snug fit, not tight or loose.  This shouldn't take more than 15 minutes or something might be wrong with the tube or bearing.
-Coat the outside of the BEARING ONLY with Marine Silicone and slide it into the stern tube until about 5/8" proud.  Twist the bearing 1/4 turn.
-Let the Silicone set overnight.
-Reinstall the set screws by dimpling the bearing from outside, being careful not to damage the fiberglass threads.  I use 1/4" Pan Head machine screws.  If you have none, take the time to install them.
-Consider installing a clam scoop to lubricate the bearing through one side of the stern tube if you have none.  It will significantly increase the life of the cutlass bearing.
-I've had no problems with this arrangement during 14 years of use, and can remove the old bearing in less than 5 minutes with an easy twist with a pipe wrench.  It now takes longer to remove the set screws than the bearing.  Once you start the twist the silicone's slipperyness facilitates the bearing's removal.
-For a bearing's long life it is important that it have good water lubrication, proper shaft alignment and the protruding shaft be no longer than 6" from stern tube to front of the prop hub.  Mine is still tight now on the shaft after 7 years.  Prior to this last installation, I made all three of the above mistakes, causing premature bearing failure.

Hope this helps.

Title: Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement
Post by: Merrily on May 03, 2017, 07:06:04 pm
Thanks Dave - as usual your responses to questions on this forum are excellent.  :)
Best Regards,